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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.